Bats

I was watching a movie last night and in my living room I noticed something silently circling overhead. Another bat was trapped with no way out. Bats, being so fragile, using get injured in my attempt to free them from my little house. Last night, after knocking it down and cornering it, I brushed it out unharmed, and it flew away. I felt accomplished.

That was easy

I’m not sure why it took me an entire 6 months/ year to figure out my whole uncomfortable bed situation. I bought a new mattress in January hoping to finally get some good sleep, but no. This morning I took my kitchen door off the hinges and laid it under my mattress. Finally I’m comfortable. That was easy.

Cows

As my REDES girls are playing a game of soccer the cows came through town. I realize this is possibly an abnormal thing for most people, those living in the states, but I’ve become very accustomed to it. So, as my girls are mid-game, mid-field, a small herd of stray cows walks through the field. As they walked diagonally across the field, my girls just played right around them, like they didn’t notice them. I admit, I didn’t think much of it either- just stray cows. But seriously? Cows on a soccer field? I’ve become way too accustomed to the peculiar.

Pancakes

This afternoon, my REDES girls and I made pancakes. I’m not a good cook at all, but I wanted to cook something for them that is at least a little bit American. The process was fun, getting them all involved. I’m not sure how many of the 10 girls actually liked them (maybe 2 or 3?) but they were good sports about at least trying them. But really, who doesn’t like pancakes?! My cooking’s not THAT bad.

Weekend

I went up to Inhambane City this weekend for a training for REDES. In conjunction with the ministry of education, we held a 1 day training on how to start and maintain a REDES group. It was fantastic!! 55 (out of 60!!) teachers came, and throughout the entire day they were participating, asking questions, taking notes-ok, so this all may sound normal, like what people always do at conferences, but not here in Mozambique. It was strange and yet so wonderful.
On my way home, I got a great ride from a man who works for the Christian Counsel of Mozambique. He was so interested in REDES and helping support trainings and more groups. I felt lucky- not only was it not a chapa, but he bought me KFC and got me (almost) home in record time. As he continued to Maputo, I continued home via chapa. As I’m sure I’ve said before, riding in a chapa is really like participating in a contortionist act. They cram people into these minibuses like we’re sardines, people wrapped around each other, bodies bent in ways that they should not bend, 10 people sitting, hovering, bending in a space that was meant for three people. Meanwhile, what is actually yours (a backpack for example) gets shuffled around - my bag is in some ladies lap while a strange child gets put on my lap and chickens are crawling on my feet and a goat is bleating because it’s crammed behind the backseat halfway hanging outside the chapa. Once we finally get moving, we stop a few hundred yards down the road to pick up more people. Seriously?! I thought they might actually try to tie someone to the roof just to get more people. And of course, when we stop to let someone off, it’s not the woman sitting in the front, it’s the woman in the very back, so we all get out, pass the kids and purses around, climb over the stray chickens and broken seats that don’t fold up, let out the one person, and crawl back in again. It looks like a circus act. In the end, if I make it to my destination with all my belongings, in one piece, without getting peed or thrown up on, it’s been a good trip. My idea of personal space and comfort is seriously warped.

I saw a dragon!!

I had an interesting run today. It started with a herd of children following me. I lost them after about 10 mins- I was surprised they held out so long. Almost immediately thereafter I was charged by a cow. Legitimately charged. It was a girl cow but she still had horns. I almost dove into a bush trying to get out of her path, which in hindsight was not a bright move. I kept thinking I was seeing giant bugs flying through the air (which isn’t abnormal) but once I got away from the cows and children I realized I was seeing ash falling from the sky. Off in the distance I could see smoke and I thought I’d smelled something burning, which again is not abnormal, but I thought it was strange to see all the ash floating around. About halfway through my run, over the sound of my music, I heard a rustling to my side. I looked over and I swear, it was a dragon. A komono dragon, maybe, if they have those here. Whatever it was it, was HUGE- over 4 feet long. I think I spooked him because when I stopped he stopped and we stood there for a moment- then I took off and got at least far enough away so I didn’t think he’d attack me. He was pretty- slithered along his path. I kept thinking on my way back I was going to encounter something else- bigger and scarier. Adds a whole new level of enjoyment to my runs.

Party

One of my 8th grade classes threw a party for themselves today to celebrate their birthdays. It was so fantastic! Birthday parties are not a normal thing here- I don’t think I’ve ever been to a birthday party or even heard of one, so it was a fun surprise. The students invited all the teachers into their classroom where it was decorated with balloons and drawings on the chalk board. Eulalia, a student and one of my REDES girls, got up and gave a speech to the teachers thanking them for participating and for supporting them throughout the year. Then the Director of Turma (the teacher in charge of the class) read a poem about growing up and how they, the students, are our future and how important they are. It was so sweet. Then we sang happy birthday and ate the food the students had prepared- French fries, salad, and sandwiches. It was a feast. I was completely surprised by the party and not only was I happy to be involved, I was/am so happy that the students had the opportunity to celebrate themselves and feel special. It’s so rare here that kids get that. And they seemed so happy. I did make them work a little, considering the party took place during my class time- I made them sing Happy Birthday in English.

Cabral

At the beginning of the year, my co-worker Professor Cabral was in a fatal car accident. He didn’t die in the accident but he never came back to school and nobody ever spoke about him. I had no idea his condition until this afternoon. I saw his face and had to do a triple take. He seems to be his old self, same smile, same humor, only now he’s missing his right arm. I didn’t get a chance to talk to him because he was going into a meeting with our director but I’m so happy to see him back here and see he’s happy and healthy. (About a week after writing this originally, I found out because he lost his writing arm, he’s not able to teach, but he’ll still be working at my school, as the librarian. I’m happy he’ll be here, plus I’m happy we’ll FINALLY have a library).

good moments

I had a great convo with my loga guy, Rafael. He and his brother Samito run a store next to my school so I’m in there a lot to buy stuff, talk, whatever. They’ve been good friends of mine since I got here. Anyways, I talk to them a lot, but today Rafael and I got into some pretty fun topics. We talked about the US going to war, Mozambican violence or lack thereof, gun control, transactional sex, HIV and other diseases, and the importance of educating girls. So many topics covered! It was so great to hear his opinions on things. He’s not an extremely educated guy (graduated high school but born and raised in the bush) but he’s got such amazing thoughts and priorities. His thought process is so much different from most Mozambicans I meet- he was talking about the importance of only having one girlfriend or wife, about not having more kids than you can take care of, about the importance of educating girls so they’ll be able to make smart life decisions rather than rely on a man. It was amazing! I wish these conversations happened more often because when they do I’m on cloud nine and feel like I could never leave here.

Education

My REDES girls have never been very chatting. Considering they’re 13-14-15year old girls, they’re quite a quiet bunch. Today we were making earrings, listening to music, and chatting a bit, what I decided to give an impromptu lecture on myths and facts of HIV transmission. I’ve done it before with my REDES group but none of the girls today had heard the info. I was shocked at how lit up and involved they became. Usually when we talk about heavy topics they don’t speak, don’t ask questions, just kinda sit there and (I hope) soak it up. Today was completely different. They asked questions and participated in discussion. I had a lot to explain to them, and now I know we have SO much more to talk about, and I’m completely motivated.

Power come back!!

Looks like I’m only getting power at night for awhile. Apparently the entire time I was in Maputo, the energy was coming and going several times a day. Since I’ve been back I’ve had power between 5:30pm and 10:30pm. It’s annoying because I have an electric stove and I’d like to cook during the day, but it’s not bad now that I know I’ll at least get power in the evenings. Only big difference- no morning baths. Without being able to heat the water it feels like ice. I may be tough, but I’m not that tough, especially not at six in the morning.

Strange Site

I caught a chapa on my way back from Maputo today- I went to Junta (a large area, not really a parking lots because it’s more of a free-for-all where cars, buses and minibuses load up passengers to head to just about anywhere in the country) and while walking toward my chapa I almost literally stumbled over a man passed out in the middle of everything. I think he was passed out from being drunk- that’s not at all abnormal here, especially it being a Sunday afternoon- but I was most surprised that everyone just left him where he was- cars were swerving around him, people were walking around him, but nobody thought to move him out of the middle of Junta. Just thought it was strange.

Back to my hut

After waiting for an hour and a half to speak with the doctor and a 3 minute inspection of my foot, I'm medically cleared to head back to the bush. It's been a nice ride, this last week- showers, good food, being part of a family- but it's time to get back to real life. Hopefully my students haven't forgotten EVERYTHING I've taught them in the last few months, but I'm not holding my breath...

Just adorable

I stole this from Katie's facebook. This is baby Eloite (e-LOY-tee). She's clapping because she just put on a brand new beautiful dress. I want to bring her home.

T. I. A.

I love Maputo- warm running water showers, comfy bed, thai food, indian food, pizza, bacon cheese burgers (I like food alright!), good beer, fast internet... it's refreshing. But it's still Africa. I went into the clinic to get minor toe surgery. First, as I'm waiting in the ER, the receptionist is on her cellphone chatting up a storm as people are walking in and the phone is ringing- she couldn't be bothered. TIA. Second, I go in to get cut open and the doctor says "oh, looks like i might have trouble numbing you because of how red it is." My response- "go ahead, cut it out. I have a high pain tolerance." And he did. Apparently Africa has roughed and toughed me up a bit. But really, does skin tint have much to do with administering any sort of numbing agent? TIA.

REDES success

I came to Maputo this past weekend for a REDES planning meeting- it went so well!! Usually it's only PCVs involved in the conference planning process, but this year we included 3 Mozambican women who have been part of the project for many years. It was so great to see how into it they were getting and how many wonderful ideas they had we would've never thought of. In my experience, these kinda of meetings/interactions with Mozambicans can be difficult, but I was so surprised and thankful with the women we have working on REDES.

Injustices

One thing I have a hard time getting past is the fact that schools make students pay for their tests. Aren’t tests a part of going to school? Aren’t you supposed to be evaluated? At my school, each student has to pay for the paper used to copy the tests- for some students it turns out to be as much as 66mets per person. That’s only about 2US dollars but that’s more than these children and their families can spare. Many kids at my school can’t afford uniforms or shoes or even food- yet they’re forced to pay for tests or they can’t take them.

Jump rope

I’m still amazing to see all the children raising children in my town. Today several little girls were playing on my porch, coloring and jumping rope. One of the girls had a baby tied to her back. But man, she didn’t miss a beat with that jump rope! I guess it’s good to see that even though so many of the kids have responsibilities placed on them at such a young age, they can still have some fun now and then. With a child strapped to their backs.

Locked Up Abroad

One thing I never wanted to experience = Jail in a foreign country. Thankfully I'm still blissfully ignorant- my parents on the other hand are international jailbirds. Yes, my parents.
On the last day of our travels we left Zanzibar in the morning for mainland Tanzania, then caught a flight into South Africa. We had dinner plans, a gorgeous B&B to stay at, and a few more hours to spend together before they left me in Africa. Instead, they were quarantined in the airport for not having documentation of receiving yellow fever vaccine. After I got all hysterical on the customs agents for trying to separate us, they took us to a holding room for about an hour and a half while they “sorted through the situation.” Then, without much warning, they told me I had to leave the airport and they would be taken to another holding facility. I was escorted out of the airport, with hopes that I’d be able to track them down in the morning. Turns out they were placed in two different jail cells- metal bars, squeaky bunk beds, florescent lights that were never turned off, horse-hair blankets- the whole nine yards. And then they waited.
In the morning, about 12 hours after our escapade started, they were released into the airport after signing deportation paperwork and told to wait for their flight to the United States. I, being a Peace Corps Volunteer and therefore very resourceful, worked my way back through the airport and tracked them down (and getting myself into the VIP lounge), so at least we had our last few hours together.
A few things I find odd about the situation: After being detained and help in jail cells overnight, they were released into the airport with all other passengers, to roam around for the three hours before their flight. Wasn’t the point of detention to keep them from contaminating other passengers? Also, all it would’ve taken, to avoid the whole evening of jail cells and airport fees (the airline had to pay 180rand per person per hour for the jail cells AND (I believe) a 10,000$ fine for each of them) was a simple shot. Two 50$ shots, given upon arrival, and they would’ve been let on their way.
So, after a fantastic trip and so many wonderful memories, my parents leave Africa after spending the night in jail and being deported. At least they got a nice story out of it.

Spice Tour

We took a tour of a spice farm today. It was so cool how they had so many different spices growing next to each other. And not only spices but fruits and trees as well. They had; teak trees, red mahogany trees, rice paddies, vanilla bean, cumin, ginger, tumeric, coffee, anato, lemongrass, star fruit, bread fruit, banana trees, coconut trees, cardamon, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, and I'm sure I'm forgetting a few... We walked around the farm, which looked and felt like a rain forest, and then had lunch in a thatched roof patio thing in the middle of a spice farm. The food, once again, was fantastic. So many spices and flavors. Can't wait to get back to my hut and start learning to cook. Like actually cook.

Hakuna Matata

What a wonderful phrase! Seriously, I never thought I'd be able to say those words and yet still be taken seriously. It's great. At least 3 times a day people say Hakuna Matata to me and I break into song and dance. Also, Zanzibar. Say it with me, ZAN-zi-BAAR. This place is just as exotic as the word sounds. Tonight, after wandering through Stone Town we had margaritas on the beach while a movie was filmed on one side of us and boys practiced capoeira on the other side. Then it was off to the Forodhani Gardens for street food- zanzibar pizza with coconut bread followed by fried banana and nutella. I'm in food heaven.

Zanzibar

So, day two in Zanzibar and I've already eaten my body weight in fantastic food. Oh my goodness!!! Yesterday was fresh fruit smoothies while watching sunset over the water. Last night was traditional Swahili cuisine, coconut milk King fish with lentils, sweet potatoes and calamari on the side, while sitting on the floor (PS sitting on the floor was great, except that my mom noticed the mouse running around and wasn't too excited about his company). This morning, homemade chocolate cake for breakfast (YES PLEASE!). This afternoon, street food (kinda) including coconut squid, clams, and red curry vegetables. And tonight, we went to this family's house, sat in their dining room, and ate a 7 course meal. Appetizer after appetizer of fried, stuffed goodness followed by coconut milk tuna (if you can't tell, I have a thing for coconut milk), deep fried sweet bread, and a fruit juice concoction from heaven. I thought I was going to explode. It was so delicious, I put all the sweet bread we couldn't finish into my bag so I could eat it later. Don't judge- you would've done the same.

New perspectives

It's fun having new eyes after being here so long. Showing my parents where I live was not only fun for them but fun for me to relive the peculiarity of my current situation.

-There's no possible way to sleep-in in Hokwe. By 6am, without fail, there are goats, chickens, children, pigs running around making noise. I've become accustomed to this. My parents- not so much.
-The goat tied up outside my bathroom for three days threw them off a bit. We couldn't hang out clothes to dry on the hedges for fear the goat would eat them.
-A baby goat gave my mom a little mid-morning entertainment as it ran inside my house, narrowly escaping capture by three dogs. It came in, wandered around, then waltzed out again.
-Giant snail crawling around outside my house- also apparently not normal. It's only the size of my hand, why so surprised?!
-Daily afternoon on my front porch = 12 children anxiously waiting for the coloring books and frisbees while chickens, goats, dogs and pigs wander around my yard looking for food and/or shade.
-main roads littered with potholes so big I could lay down in them, with ease.
-3 day power-outages.
-Cockroaches the size of small birds.
-Bats flying around in the classroom during English Club, that drew no attention from anyone other than my parents.

From Alaska to Africa part II

The Parents

I've had such a fantastic time having my parents visit!!! They picked me up from the airport and immediately took me to a FABUOUS B&B where I drank wine, took a bath, and slept in a giant bed in a room all to myself (note: yes, small events, but when combined after a year and a half living in the bush, they are amazing). Then we went to Mozambique and to my site where my Alaskan family got to meet my Mozambique family. I have to say, they handled themselves quite well in all regards of living in the bush- no electricity, sleeping in 90+ degree weather, peeing in a hole- great job guys. Then it was up to the beach for Beach Beer Olympics. Yes, my parents were not only invited, they stayed with us at the hostel. They were champs, meeting all my friends and holding their own when need be.
After Moz we went to Kruger Park. We hadn't been in the park more than 30 mins when we drove up and saw zebra and wildebeest on one side of the road, a giraffe, an elephant, and two rhinos on the other side, and all the while impala running around grunting mating calls at each other. Then we watched a crocodile eat a snake in the water while a hippo calmly watched from a few feet away. And, get this- Big Five within 24hours. Elephant, Rhino, Buffalo, Lion and Leopard.
Now they bring me back to the B&B for a few more hours of wine, internet, and delicious food. Tomorrow, off to Tanzania!!!

Happy Mothers Day. I'm so thankful to have my mama with me even though I'm living on the other side of the world. I have amazing parents.

and i fell from the sky!

Cape Town, South Africa
4 Peace Corps volunteers, 6 days, 1 car, so many memories!! Hiking up to Table Top Mountain in the freezing weather (I hadn't seen my breath in over 2 years!!), Cape Point to see the penguins and of course visit the most southern point in Africa, wine country (3 wineries in 1 afternoon = fantastic! even when I was DD), and jumping off a 64 story high bridge. Amazing! So bungee jumping was great! I got my toes over the edge of the bridge, help my arms out, they counted "5 4 3 2 1 BUNGEE" and I did a swan dive off. Let me just say, even though I was screaming on the way down, it was a damn good looking dive. Thank you Alice Sullivan and ADT for the many years of ballet training to allow me such beautiful form while jumping off a bridge.