My life is so much less eventful when I’m not riding in chapas! I love getting rides not only because they are safe and sometimes free, but also because it’s so much more calm and uneventful. Well this morning was anything but calm and uneventful. The taxi ride was pretty smooth going- good start. Then once we got to junta in Maputo, Scooter and I parted ways and I was left to haggle my way onto a chapa headed south. I’m a small white woman carrying bags, so not only did I stand out but I was an easy target for the cobradors (not drivers, but the people who “take care” of you once you’re on the chapa-open the door, take the money, etc). I walked back and forth between a few chapas, trying to find the one that was most full because it has the most potential to leave the soonest, and also who would give me the best price. I found one, started haggling, and ended up getting into an argument with the cobrador. I was telling him he was charging me WAY too much and I wasn’t going to pay, and he told me I was white and had plenty of money for him. I tried to explain Peace Corps- I’m here as a volunteer NOT as a tourist and I’m NOT getting paid a lot of money. He didn’t want to listen, and he was being a douch about it, so I got upset and walked off after a few minutes of arguing. Luckily, a few other people heard me and how rude he was being so they followed me and we filled up a different chapa.
So, once on the road, the woman behind me started chanting. It wasn’t in Changana or Portuguese (or English or French for that matter) and it was very strange- there was some rocking back and forth with the eyes closed… It died down about an hour in, which was when a man starting to complain that we needed to pull over so a little girl could pee. A few minutes later he admitted it was him that needed to pee and everyone in the chapa started to make fun of him. It was strange- riders don’t seem to care when we stop every 20 yards to pick up more people, stuff, rearrange, blow a tire, whatever. But to pull over and pee was absolutely out of the question! For a minute there I thought he might just pee out the window. Anyways, finally got out off that chapa and on to another. It was full of drunk teenagers, before 10:30am. At least they were friendly and the driver was sober. We waited over an hour to fill the chapa before we could leave. Once driving, we still stopped every few minutes to pick up more people- at one point we had 26 people on board, not including children and babies. At one point we stopped to let people off and I saw a dance party going on- several people with crazy hats dancing around with people watching. My favorite was the little boy in hot pink rain boots that came up to his knees, dancing in the sand. Finally at my stop I got out and waited for another ride to take me into my town. Luckily I made it home and back to school with my bata just as classes were starting, 12:20. A 5 ½ hour trip via chapa that should’ve taken maybe 3. An exciting morning.
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