I´m BACK!!!!

After spending just over 6 weeks at home, I´m back in Mozambique. My time home was AMAZING!!! Alaska was cold, the snow was beautiful, it was fantastic to see all my family and friends, eat Mexican food, drink good beer, drive a car, have hot showers, not be chased by goats or children, shop in a supermarket, sleep in, watch trashy TV... I could go on. Anyways, after a fantastic time home (Alaska, Hawaii, Seattle and Atlanta), I´m back. I spent my first two nights in the capital with my Moz family- oh how I´d missed them. Then to Namaacha. I´m pretty sure Scooter was happy to have me back- two weeks by herself and the dog with not a whole lot to do can get pretty boring. The weather here has been pretty nitense the last few weeks- from over 100degrees to hurricane winds and rains. I got the rain part. Just after getting home, my room flooded. Thankfully I hadnt unpacked too much yet. The power was also out, and had been for a few days, so no phones or easily made hot water. I jumped right back into life as I remember it- mosquitos, hot muggy weather, no power, bucket baths in the cold, and waking up at 4am with the chickens. Dont get my wrong, I´m happy to be here, but it´s going to take a few more days to get into the swing of things.

Thanksgiving

Went up to Mapinhane, Inhambane for thanksgiving this year- it was fantastic. Totally worth the 12hour trip.
I spent tuesday with a few of my favorite volunteers as they got ready to go back to AmericaLand. I'm so happy for everyone going home but it can be so tough also. I'm going to miss them all so so much.
Wednesday i set out for Mapinhane- it's a smally town on the EN1 in northern Inhambane. The ride up was actually pretty great- I made some new friends, watched a group of men devour a goat head, eyes and all, got caught in a thunderstorm, and yet still made it to alice and aj's house before dark.
Thanksgiving was great- thursday morning was just 6 of us, we woke up early (do we ever not wake up early?!) and got to cooking. Alice made about 30 batches of cornbread for cornbread stuffing (which was sensational), while the rest of us drew posters explaining how to use the bathroom. Around 3 more people started to arrive. We bought a turkey and proceeded to get it drunk. I'm not talking a couple sips of wine, the boys poured several shots of gin the turkey's throat. Poor thing just passed out! (for the record, you're suppose to get a turkey drunk before you kill it- not exactly sure why but you're suppose to).
By 6, everyone was there- we were 28 people with representation from America (or course), South Africa, Mozambique, and Italy. Carl, our PC country director also came, which was awesome. The director of the school where we were cooking and sleeping said a few words thanking us for inviting her, and then we began. Simultaneously, the termites came out in full force. Thousands of termites were swarming the lights above us and landing in our food. You literally could not take a bite without brushing 2 or 3 away. We ended up moving outside to eat, among the mosquitos. We went around the group and said what we were thankful for- it was fun to listen to people in English, Portuguese and Italian. Some were serious, about how we're thankful for each other and the last two years together, and some were more light hearted, like how we're thankful our boss bought us two cases of beer for the occasion. Then, the puppy that a pcv had brought with her, got bit by something- spider, scorpion, centipede we're unsure- and was yelping and crying and shaking. We didn't think he'd live through the night- swollen tongue and difficulties breathing- but he did.
The power went out at 10pm so we were almost all asleep by 1030. Up at 5 to clean and eat some delicious leftovers that the termites hadn't gotten to. Pecan pie in the morning = heaven!!
By 6 people were on their way back home, and it was so sad to say goodbye. AJ started playing his guitar and singing and to be honest, I wasn't sure I was going to make it out of there without crying hysterically.
I can't believe it's all coming to an end! Yeah, i'm staying a third year, but everyone who I arrived with are leaving. My Peace Corps family is breaking apart. I'm definitely looking forward to next year with my new job and my fantastic roomie Scooter, but it's still tough to watch my other besties go.

Namaacha

I moved! At the end of last week, I finished up teaching, said goodbye to my students and fellow teachers, had a fabulous party with my REDES girls, and moved to a new town.

The end of teaching was completely bittersweet. It felt great to be done teaching, finished lesson planning and grading, but I'll really miss a lot of my students. They were difficult a lot of the time, but to see them learning was so rewarding. And funny story- my last day with them, one of my favortie students gave me an apple. An apple. Yes, that may seem normal for the states, but it's definitely not normal here. Apples are so expensive, and can't be bought in my town, and to give presents to teachers (not trying to solicit grades) is unheard of. I felt so special- she was such a great student and I really hope that she gained at least something from my classes.

My REDES girls helped throw a going-away party for me which was so much fun! We made t-shirts from the money they made selling jewelry, cooked delicious food all afternoon to make a wonderful feast (I had no idea 20 tiny little girls could consume that much food!!!), and sang and danced the whole day. I loved watching them let loose and have fun- so many of my girls have pretty structured and difficult lives at home so I enjoy giving them some freedom. And, corny I know, seeing theirs smiles. I will miss them so much.

Wednesday, I finished packing and then gave all my extra little things to my neighbor kids. They had a box of toys they would play with everyday - jump ropes, my-little-ponies, tennis balls, frisbees - so each kid got at least one thing to take home. After all my things were packed up and loaded into the Peace Corps car, I said goodbye to all the kids and my empregada Christina, and left Hokwe behind.

Namaacha is amazing! It's been forever since I've been here but it was a great homecoming. The area is so beautiful- lush and green and hilly. My new house is wonderful, and I have a great new roommate, Abby (3rd year PCV on her way back to the sates). I haven't really started my new job yet- it's a pretty busy time for Peace Corps with training new volunteers and sending my group home- but I can't wait to get things rolling and get into working.

This is definitely a huge change for me - new town, new house, new job, new roomy, new everything. I won't be working so much on a community level, I'll be working more with PCVs and PC staff, developing sustainable youth development projects, but I'm sure I'll have more crazy stories and adventures to share in the coming months.

and the training continues

I like to run- it takes my mind off things. And it's become a necessary part of my life here in Moz. I always find at least one interesting thing on my run- new crazy looking creatures, watch a bull fight, get chased by a herd of children... today for example was a man wondering along the national highway singing and playing the guitar at 630 in the morning. All this running is about to pay off... For the last few years I've been wanting to run a marathon but either never made the time or kept getting injured (i'm accident prone, it happens). Since being in Peace Corps i've accomplished a lot of things I've always really wanted to do (have dreds, go bungy jumping, learn another language, travel to cape town...) and on Sept 25th I will run a marathon. It's not an organized marathon but several or us PCVs are getting together and making it happen (we've been inviting Mozambicans to run but it's not really their thing. No takers as of yet). Not only am I running the marathon, I'm celebrating my 26th birthday by running 26 miles. I figure now is a better time than ever! Send me endurance vibes on the 25th!! (or the night of the 24th for most of you ;)

REDES Conference

End of day 5 of the conference- what a week it has been!!! It had been SUCH a wonderful conference- we started out with 62 girls (age 11 to 19) and 24 Moz Facilitators. Including PCVs we had just about 100 participants. The first morning, The Honorable Leslie V. Rowe, Ambassador to the United States kicked off the conference by sharing her experiences and the importance of women's education and empowerment. The girls were so inspired! Throughout the conference we've had several other guest speakers and have had sessions ranging from HIV transmission, women's rights, domestic violence, and pregnancy to test taking skills, effective communication, and public speaking. All in all, the conference has gone very smoothly- the normal problems arose (people have left due to illness or troubles at home) but the Lodge we're staying at, Barra Lodge in Barra, Inhambane, has been ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC!!!! The people here at so friendly, so helpful, and have accommodated all the crazy things that have come up over the last few days.

So much has happened, it's hard to put the conference into a few words. Because I was running the conference and behind the scenes for pretty much everything except opening and closing ceremonies, I'm really looking forward to getting back to site and seeing how my girls have changed. I brought 2 girls to the conference, one who's very closed off and another who was already pretty outspoken, and I'm really hoping to see them speak up even more. Tomorrow on the 10 hour bus ride home I'm going to try and get a few things out of them.

Because I'm horrible with taking and posting photos, check out theredesproject.wordpress.com, search REDES on flickr or Facebook, or check out Scooter's blog scooterinmozambique.blogspot.com.

AMAZING WEEK!!!! ...looking forward to some sleep...

3rd Year

It's official, I'm staying a third year. So exciting! I've been looking into different options for my future for almost a year now- several of the options included staying in Moz, and I was about to get a job (still as a Peace Corps Volunteer) working on secondary projects, aka I wont be teaching. I'll be working on youth projects like REDES, JOMA (a club for girls and boys), English theatre, Science fair, and several others. I'll be working towards sustainability of the projects and setting solid long term goals. This means I'll no longer be national coordinator of REDES (or any group for that matter) but I'll have my hand in all the projects. Plus I get to move to a new site, make new friends, see new places, and live with one of my best friends, Scooter. It's going to be an interesting and eventful year :)
I am coming back to the states for just over a month for the holidays- also exciting!! I'm looking forward to mirco-brew beer, sushi, mexican food, sleeping long hours in a mosquito net-less, comfortable bed, and of course lots and lots of face time with friends.

Just in time

Just got energy back, somewhat. It’s been out for three days and I was getting a little tired of not being able to see or cook or stay up past 6pm. It’s not back completely- my stove won’t get hot enough to cook, but at least my computer can plug in and charge my phone J
I broke up a fight at school today, and got punched in the process. It’s my own fault, of course, for stepping in between two students, but it still kinda sucked. Tomorrow I get to have my first official parent teacher conference. Should be fun.
Otherwise same old same old- I’m teaching about HIV transmission and prevention in class and today I taught my REDES girls how to use condoms. Never a dull moment around here.

Bats

I was watching a movie last night and in my living room I noticed something silently circling overhead. Another bat was trapped with no way out. Bats, being so fragile, using get injured in my attempt to free them from my little house. Last night, after knocking it down and cornering it, I brushed it out unharmed, and it flew away. I felt accomplished.

That was easy

I’m not sure why it took me an entire 6 months/ year to figure out my whole uncomfortable bed situation. I bought a new mattress in January hoping to finally get some good sleep, but no. This morning I took my kitchen door off the hinges and laid it under my mattress. Finally I’m comfortable. That was easy.

Cows

As my REDES girls are playing a game of soccer the cows came through town. I realize this is possibly an abnormal thing for most people, those living in the states, but I’ve become very accustomed to it. So, as my girls are mid-game, mid-field, a small herd of stray cows walks through the field. As they walked diagonally across the field, my girls just played right around them, like they didn’t notice them. I admit, I didn’t think much of it either- just stray cows. But seriously? Cows on a soccer field? I’ve become way too accustomed to the peculiar.

Pancakes

This afternoon, my REDES girls and I made pancakes. I’m not a good cook at all, but I wanted to cook something for them that is at least a little bit American. The process was fun, getting them all involved. I’m not sure how many of the 10 girls actually liked them (maybe 2 or 3?) but they were good sports about at least trying them. But really, who doesn’t like pancakes?! My cooking’s not THAT bad.

Weekend

I went up to Inhambane City this weekend for a training for REDES. In conjunction with the ministry of education, we held a 1 day training on how to start and maintain a REDES group. It was fantastic!! 55 (out of 60!!) teachers came, and throughout the entire day they were participating, asking questions, taking notes-ok, so this all may sound normal, like what people always do at conferences, but not here in Mozambique. It was strange and yet so wonderful.
On my way home, I got a great ride from a man who works for the Christian Counsel of Mozambique. He was so interested in REDES and helping support trainings and more groups. I felt lucky- not only was it not a chapa, but he bought me KFC and got me (almost) home in record time. As he continued to Maputo, I continued home via chapa. As I’m sure I’ve said before, riding in a chapa is really like participating in a contortionist act. They cram people into these minibuses like we’re sardines, people wrapped around each other, bodies bent in ways that they should not bend, 10 people sitting, hovering, bending in a space that was meant for three people. Meanwhile, what is actually yours (a backpack for example) gets shuffled around - my bag is in some ladies lap while a strange child gets put on my lap and chickens are crawling on my feet and a goat is bleating because it’s crammed behind the backseat halfway hanging outside the chapa. Once we finally get moving, we stop a few hundred yards down the road to pick up more people. Seriously?! I thought they might actually try to tie someone to the roof just to get more people. And of course, when we stop to let someone off, it’s not the woman sitting in the front, it’s the woman in the very back, so we all get out, pass the kids and purses around, climb over the stray chickens and broken seats that don’t fold up, let out the one person, and crawl back in again. It looks like a circus act. In the end, if I make it to my destination with all my belongings, in one piece, without getting peed or thrown up on, it’s been a good trip. My idea of personal space and comfort is seriously warped.

I saw a dragon!!

I had an interesting run today. It started with a herd of children following me. I lost them after about 10 mins- I was surprised they held out so long. Almost immediately thereafter I was charged by a cow. Legitimately charged. It was a girl cow but she still had horns. I almost dove into a bush trying to get out of her path, which in hindsight was not a bright move. I kept thinking I was seeing giant bugs flying through the air (which isn’t abnormal) but once I got away from the cows and children I realized I was seeing ash falling from the sky. Off in the distance I could see smoke and I thought I’d smelled something burning, which again is not abnormal, but I thought it was strange to see all the ash floating around. About halfway through my run, over the sound of my music, I heard a rustling to my side. I looked over and I swear, it was a dragon. A komono dragon, maybe, if they have those here. Whatever it was it, was HUGE- over 4 feet long. I think I spooked him because when I stopped he stopped and we stood there for a moment- then I took off and got at least far enough away so I didn’t think he’d attack me. He was pretty- slithered along his path. I kept thinking on my way back I was going to encounter something else- bigger and scarier. Adds a whole new level of enjoyment to my runs.

Party

One of my 8th grade classes threw a party for themselves today to celebrate their birthdays. It was so fantastic! Birthday parties are not a normal thing here- I don’t think I’ve ever been to a birthday party or even heard of one, so it was a fun surprise. The students invited all the teachers into their classroom where it was decorated with balloons and drawings on the chalk board. Eulalia, a student and one of my REDES girls, got up and gave a speech to the teachers thanking them for participating and for supporting them throughout the year. Then the Director of Turma (the teacher in charge of the class) read a poem about growing up and how they, the students, are our future and how important they are. It was so sweet. Then we sang happy birthday and ate the food the students had prepared- French fries, salad, and sandwiches. It was a feast. I was completely surprised by the party and not only was I happy to be involved, I was/am so happy that the students had the opportunity to celebrate themselves and feel special. It’s so rare here that kids get that. And they seemed so happy. I did make them work a little, considering the party took place during my class time- I made them sing Happy Birthday in English.

Cabral

At the beginning of the year, my co-worker Professor Cabral was in a fatal car accident. He didn’t die in the accident but he never came back to school and nobody ever spoke about him. I had no idea his condition until this afternoon. I saw his face and had to do a triple take. He seems to be his old self, same smile, same humor, only now he’s missing his right arm. I didn’t get a chance to talk to him because he was going into a meeting with our director but I’m so happy to see him back here and see he’s happy and healthy. (About a week after writing this originally, I found out because he lost his writing arm, he’s not able to teach, but he’ll still be working at my school, as the librarian. I’m happy he’ll be here, plus I’m happy we’ll FINALLY have a library).

good moments

I had a great convo with my loga guy, Rafael. He and his brother Samito run a store next to my school so I’m in there a lot to buy stuff, talk, whatever. They’ve been good friends of mine since I got here. Anyways, I talk to them a lot, but today Rafael and I got into some pretty fun topics. We talked about the US going to war, Mozambican violence or lack thereof, gun control, transactional sex, HIV and other diseases, and the importance of educating girls. So many topics covered! It was so great to hear his opinions on things. He’s not an extremely educated guy (graduated high school but born and raised in the bush) but he’s got such amazing thoughts and priorities. His thought process is so much different from most Mozambicans I meet- he was talking about the importance of only having one girlfriend or wife, about not having more kids than you can take care of, about the importance of educating girls so they’ll be able to make smart life decisions rather than rely on a man. It was amazing! I wish these conversations happened more often because when they do I’m on cloud nine and feel like I could never leave here.

Education

My REDES girls have never been very chatting. Considering they’re 13-14-15year old girls, they’re quite a quiet bunch. Today we were making earrings, listening to music, and chatting a bit, what I decided to give an impromptu lecture on myths and facts of HIV transmission. I’ve done it before with my REDES group but none of the girls today had heard the info. I was shocked at how lit up and involved they became. Usually when we talk about heavy topics they don’t speak, don’t ask questions, just kinda sit there and (I hope) soak it up. Today was completely different. They asked questions and participated in discussion. I had a lot to explain to them, and now I know we have SO much more to talk about, and I’m completely motivated.

Power come back!!

Looks like I’m only getting power at night for awhile. Apparently the entire time I was in Maputo, the energy was coming and going several times a day. Since I’ve been back I’ve had power between 5:30pm and 10:30pm. It’s annoying because I have an electric stove and I’d like to cook during the day, but it’s not bad now that I know I’ll at least get power in the evenings. Only big difference- no morning baths. Without being able to heat the water it feels like ice. I may be tough, but I’m not that tough, especially not at six in the morning.

Strange Site

I caught a chapa on my way back from Maputo today- I went to Junta (a large area, not really a parking lots because it’s more of a free-for-all where cars, buses and minibuses load up passengers to head to just about anywhere in the country) and while walking toward my chapa I almost literally stumbled over a man passed out in the middle of everything. I think he was passed out from being drunk- that’s not at all abnormal here, especially it being a Sunday afternoon- but I was most surprised that everyone just left him where he was- cars were swerving around him, people were walking around him, but nobody thought to move him out of the middle of Junta. Just thought it was strange.

Back to my hut

After waiting for an hour and a half to speak with the doctor and a 3 minute inspection of my foot, I'm medically cleared to head back to the bush. It's been a nice ride, this last week- showers, good food, being part of a family- but it's time to get back to real life. Hopefully my students haven't forgotten EVERYTHING I've taught them in the last few months, but I'm not holding my breath...

Just adorable

I stole this from Katie's facebook. This is baby Eloite (e-LOY-tee). She's clapping because she just put on a brand new beautiful dress. I want to bring her home.

T. I. A.

I love Maputo- warm running water showers, comfy bed, thai food, indian food, pizza, bacon cheese burgers (I like food alright!), good beer, fast internet... it's refreshing. But it's still Africa. I went into the clinic to get minor toe surgery. First, as I'm waiting in the ER, the receptionist is on her cellphone chatting up a storm as people are walking in and the phone is ringing- she couldn't be bothered. TIA. Second, I go in to get cut open and the doctor says "oh, looks like i might have trouble numbing you because of how red it is." My response- "go ahead, cut it out. I have a high pain tolerance." And he did. Apparently Africa has roughed and toughed me up a bit. But really, does skin tint have much to do with administering any sort of numbing agent? TIA.

REDES success

I came to Maputo this past weekend for a REDES planning meeting- it went so well!! Usually it's only PCVs involved in the conference planning process, but this year we included 3 Mozambican women who have been part of the project for many years. It was so great to see how into it they were getting and how many wonderful ideas they had we would've never thought of. In my experience, these kinda of meetings/interactions with Mozambicans can be difficult, but I was so surprised and thankful with the women we have working on REDES.

Injustices

One thing I have a hard time getting past is the fact that schools make students pay for their tests. Aren’t tests a part of going to school? Aren’t you supposed to be evaluated? At my school, each student has to pay for the paper used to copy the tests- for some students it turns out to be as much as 66mets per person. That’s only about 2US dollars but that’s more than these children and their families can spare. Many kids at my school can’t afford uniforms or shoes or even food- yet they’re forced to pay for tests or they can’t take them.

Jump rope

I’m still amazing to see all the children raising children in my town. Today several little girls were playing on my porch, coloring and jumping rope. One of the girls had a baby tied to her back. But man, she didn’t miss a beat with that jump rope! I guess it’s good to see that even though so many of the kids have responsibilities placed on them at such a young age, they can still have some fun now and then. With a child strapped to their backs.